I ENJOY cricket - although I am one of the world's worst players. In order to get an occasional game, I created a team some 50 years ago. I am also passionate about Pinot Noir wines. Every three years, there is a great Pinot Noir festival in New Zealand. Stir all these factors together, and the result is a cricket tour to New Zealand, culminating in Wellington the day before Pinot Noir 2013 begins.

The programme of fixtures gave us the opportunity to visit a number of vineyards. At the festival, 130 different wineries were displaying their products, and this meant some in-depth sampling.

It is difficult to comprehend how short the history of fine-wine production is in New Zealand. A local author, John Saker, says that Nobilo Pinot Noir 1976 is generally considered to be the first serious wine made in the country from that grape variety.

Currently, there are three main centres of production for New Zealand Pinot Noir. Half of it is made in Marlborough, which, until recently, was known almost solely for its Sauvignon Blancs; central Otago, at the heart of the southern Alps, accounts for 29 per cent; and Wairarapa/Martinborough, just north of Wellington, makes ten per cent. The other two centres are Nelson, and Waipara, both on South Island.

One of the problems with early Pinot Noirs was a lack of colour and body. This was because the clones that had been selected were designed for making sparkling wines. In the mid-'70s, an anonymous Kiwi stole some cuttings, reputedly from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, in Burgundy, and attempted to smuggle them through Auckland airport in his gumboots. He was foiled by a customs officer, Malcolm Abel.

Mr Abel recognised the potential value of this contraband, and had it placed in quarantine, and, on its release, planted it in his own vineyard at Kumeu, outside Auckland. This has come to be known as the "Abel", or "Gumboot" clone, and is at the heart of the majority of the great Pinot Noirs currently being produced in the country.

To date, no country, with the possible exception of Romania, has succeeded in producing a low-cost Pinot Noir, and those from New Zealand demand a certain premium. The price list of New Zealand's leading retailers which I have in front of me quotes wines from $NZ17.99 to $NZ190.

I will put my suggestions into two classes: the top aristocracy, and those with more approachable prices. Martinborough is the cream: Ata Rangi, Martinborough Vineyard, and Dry River; more accessible are Escarpment The Edge 2011 (Waitrose, £14.99), and Palliser Estate 2010 (Justerini & Brooks, £16.17). From Marlborough, at the top end, I would choose Churton "The Abyss" 2010 (Berry Bros & Rudd, £47.50), or Dog Point 2010 (Berry Bros. & Rudd, £27.50).

Most wine-merchants will have sound wines from producers such as Wither Hills, and Oyster Bay, from £10 to £13. From Central Otago, the aristocrats include Felton Road, Two Paddocks, and Rippon. I can recommend Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Penguin Sands 2010, at £10.99.