I THOUGHT my car radio
was going to leap out of its casing recently when Jamie Oliver was
interviewed on Woman's Hour. I have nothing but warm
feelings towards anyone who points out the obvious about nutrition
and children's cognitive development, but as he knocked up
Singapore noodles, batted Jane Garvey into shape, and carried on
pointing out the blindingly simple facts about cooking and
well-being to the nation, I joined the great cloud of witnesses who
were apparently phoning, emailing, and tweeting with their
cheers.
There is nothing much
that his excellent new book, Save with Jamie (Michael
Joseph, £26; 978-0-7181-5814-9), and TV series will teach to those
who know about using up stale bread, but they will like the
inventive recipes.
My favourite - one to
tuck away for Hallowe'en, perhaps - is Zombie
brain. This is a slowly roasted whole celeriac, wrapped in
foil, with a knob of butter in its "hair". Rub it with olive oil,
salt and pepper, thyme sprigs, bay leaves, and 4 crushed garlic
cloves, and seal the foil tightly. Roast it for about two hours at
190˚C/375˚F/Gas 5, unwrapping it about ten minutes before the end
to baste it regularly. For the rest:
220g (7 oz) pearl
barley
1 small onion, peeled
and finely
sliced
2 cloves garlic,
peeled and finely
sliced
800g (1½ lb)
mushrooms, finely
sliced
¼ vegetable stock
cube
1 bay leaf
150ml (¼ pt) single
cream
1 heaped teaspoon
English
mustard
extra virgin olive
oil
Cook the pearl barley.
Fry the onion and garlic in the olive oil till soft. Add the
mushrooms, and cook for about 20 minutes. Add the stock and bay
leaf, and 200ml boiling water. Simmer and reduce, stir in the cream
and mustard, and simmer for 5 minutes. Keep it warm until the
celeriac is ready. Drain and season the pearl barley. Serve slices
of the celeriac on the barley, and garnish with the mushroom sauce
and seasonal greens.
Having the oven on for
two hours, you'll want to be roasting a squash or two as well,
ready to make a variety of different meals. Jamie puts a whole
squash in the oven for 1½ hours on 180˚C/350˚F/Gas 4, deseeds it,
scoops out the flesh and makes fritters, houmous, rigatoni, and
bruschetta. I like the Squash houmous recipe:
1 heaped tablespoon
sesame seeds
1 clove garlic,
peeled and sliced
1 fresh red chilli,
peeled and sliced
½ bunch fresh
coriander
1 tin chickpeas (and
liquid)
half a roasted
squash
½ lemon
extra virgin olive
oil
Toast the sesame seeds in a dry pan till golden. Add the garlic,
chilli, coriander, and chickpeas, and bring to the boil. Drain, and
mash with the rest of the ingredients. "Taste. Season to
perfection, and serve with warm tortillas."